Times Past and Present
Mackinac Island is separated from the mainland, which has caused it to cultivate its own way of life. But it’s not exactly remote. A little geography here…the upper and lower peninsulas of Michigan are connected by the Mackinac Bridge—known as the "Mighty Mac". It spans 5 miles and looks pretty impressive from Mackinac Island. St. Ignace is located on the north end of the bridge, while Mackinaw City is at its south end. Take the Mackinaw City/Mackinac Island Ferry to and fro. It is always "open" (in response to the oft-asked question) but is best enjoyed from May through October. In the winter you will have to fly a chartered or private plane to it; but once there, you can don your skis to traverse the groomed trails for cross country ski ers, snowshoers and snowbunnies. In 1979 the romantic period drama Somewhere in Time was filmed here starring Jane Seymour and Christopher Reeve. If you are one of its fans you may remember scenes with a lovely gazebo. That gazebo can now be seen on a wooded bluff overlooking Marquette Park. You can get hitched there, since hitching up is common here.
There is a lot of history to this place that was once considered sacred land by Indians; and is now designated as a National Historic Landmark. I suppose now it’s fairly "sacred" to travel agents. Not to show any disrespect though! Considering the quaint, historic downtown boasts the venerable McGulpin House--thought to be Michigan's oldest house dating from 1780. Another venerable site is the Grand Hotel that began as the desire of a local cottage builder—who had an amazing reputation for quick construction or an out-of-this-world work ethic—I don’t know—built "The Grand" within 4 months of time.
Attention horse-lovers! Horse drawn taxis are the way to get around. Drop by the taxi office on Main Street to phone in a request. For those of you with lots of luggage a dray, which is a horse drawn flatbed cart is available. Mackinac Island Carriage Tours, the oldest and largest horse and buggy livery service
in the entire modern world, delivers a fine narrated tour via a two-horse or three-horse hitch. The only way to top it would be if "Mr. Ed" was the horse narrating it! Over 600 horses call this island home. You can rent a saddle horse for trail riding, take a carriage tour or even drive your own buggy to tour the state park. Tips, in the form of tart and tasty apples, are often appreciated. I believe that any Mackinac adventurer would be missing out without a horseback ride through the woods in the interior part of the island. No experience necessary here as stable hands lend theirs. About 30 draft horses over winter here…their job is never done!
Next to their horse, Mackinac Islanders love their bike. From heavy-duty bikes to sweet classics, everyone rides. You can rent them or bring your own trusty cycle. I call my cycle Screamin’ Norman. Navigating about on your tandem is pretty easy. The main strip is the nexus for shoppers and spenders and lovers of fudge and saltwater taffy in the heart of downtown. Pampering is available at the spas and salons. Fun in the sun is available at the golf courses!
The annual Lilac Festival celebrates its most recognized botanical symbol while emphasizing its historic appeal that began with the Island’s varieties brought here over a century ago—I can almost smell that sweet, familiar aroma now. The 10-day festival ends with the coronation of the Lilac Festival Queen and Court.
Chart Your Points of Interest
Fort Mackinac
is open May 7 – Oct 7. This 200 year-old plus fortress on a bluff was garrisoned by the British during the Revolutionary War. This could be your refresher for long-forgotten elementary school history lessons! Come to where they deliver a (loud) cannon salute and interpretive actors show you the old customs wearing period costumes. All this among 14 original buildings. Salute!
Historic Mill Creek is the name of a water-driven sawmill embedded in scenic Mill Creek not far from Mackinaw City. It’s part of a large, wooded park.
Historic commercial buildings have their doors open to tourists who wish to get a firsthand look into the lives of those from days gone by. Notable is the
Stuart House Museum, the home of America’s first millionaire—back in the day when that was an unusually large sum of money! Purveyors of Victorian and military history-themed items keepsakes (you may call them souvenirs) are on Mackinac. Enriching experiences will reward those with an explorer’s spirit who are curious about how Great Lakes shipping and trade
shaped lives in the region.
Visitors can observe archaeology in progress during the summer months at Colonial Michilimackinac where archeologists continue to sift the sand for artifacts of its colorful past. Nowadays, it is an accurate reconstruction of how this fortified village appeared in the 1770’s, complete with a regiment of redcoats from its British days.
Also in Mackinaw City is Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse in Mackinaw City: open May 7 – Oct 7. This castle-like structure will even let you test your nighttime navigation skills for kicks. Oh, you mean you haven’t perfected those navigation skills? Well, you need to catch up!
Bois Blanc Island is seen from the island. But I wouldn’t get big ideas about heading over yonder. It is larger, but mostly wild. A tiny population lives there year-round—I mean tiny in number, not in stature. Facilities are a campground with no facilities (did I just say that?) and a sandy beach. Paradise? Maybe. But not any tropical paradise. Most of its extensive beachfront is rocky. To make land on this island you would board a ferry from the city of Cheboygan, Michigan.
Fish Tales and Land Lore
I’m not guilty of any exaggeration when I say the waters in the straits have a rich fish population of whitefish, lake trout and other native species. You can sail or motor your own vessel to the island and make mooring reservations with the Dept. of Natural Resources.
From the island you can venture out on the water on a relaxing private ferry cruise. It would be a unique setting for a special event or party. Set sail on a large sailboat in the straits. Imagine an excursion with an experienced Captain and crew in a custom-built catamaran. You’ll sail near the Round Island Lighthouse, Bois Blanc Island, Round Island, Arch Rock, The Mackinac Island Lighthouse and, of course, through the harbor. The island’s own yacht club is 300 members strong. The Chicago Yacht Club makes waves each July with the largest freshwater yacht race in the world. The 100th running of "The Mac" is planned for 2008, so don't let this one get away mate! The race begins far south in Chicago and finishes at Mackinac. Enjoy the mighty splendor!
For those of more modest means, three ferry lines cross from May to November. Departures are from either Mackinaw City or St. Ignace. You part ways—or part happily with a way of life—by leaving your car at the ferry docks to board the ferry.
On the island is Mackinac Island State Park as Michigan’s first state park covering 80% of the northern part. You’ll discover meadows, swamps, bogs, natural coastline, boreal forest and caves once you venture into the preserve. Forests of white pine, hemlock, birch, maple and elm cover the landscape. See the limestone formations of Arch Rock and Devil’s Kitchen. The remaining land is privately owned and includes the boat docks, shopping district, resorts and summer homes. Apparently, you can pack a lot onto a small island. Trailriding, hiking or biking are all memorable ways to see geological formations and seascapes from land’s end. I can just see that setting sun now! Some of the inland features are well within a walk’s distance from downtown. Encircling the island is a paved trail about 7 miles long—or would that be 7 miles in diameter?? There are hiking tours and biking tours to learn about the legends and lore of the island. Included is a look at the beach full of skipping stones. All told, there are about 70 miles of natural and paved trails.
Stay Awhile
If you stay the night you get to experience authentic aspects of daily life that make this island special—the sounds of waves, freighter and ferry foghorns absent the general hum of automobiles. There is an abundance of places to stay—from resorts to bed and breakfasts. The best known is the Grand Hotel with its stunning architecture and lake views from its hilltop location. It houses six restaurants serving up charm and gastronomic delights. Originally built in 1852, the Island House was the first summer hotel on the island. Its history is evident in its architecture featuring a sweeping veranda; and its quiet location overlooking the straits was the grounds for its historic reputation as a retreat. Now its amenities make it a good family hotel. Or picture this—a restored Victorian home with wrap-around porch, beautiful gardens recalling a simpler time. Attention to the details fashions comfortable, homey guest rooms. These material pleasures are found in the bed and breakfasts or the fully furnished cottages for rent. You’ll find that the welcome mat is laid out for dogs as well. There are numerous pooch-friendly places among the outdoor cafes, bed-and-breakfasts and area hotels.
Regional favorites at local restaurants provide a welcome break from the "chain eateries" you may have made your mainstay for too long. These include fresh Great Lakes whitefish, trout, salmon, perch, or bass served smoked, planked or grilled. So ferry on over to dine at places with distinctive name like Pink Pony Bar & Grill, Carelton’s Tea Shop and Gastronomique du Mackinac (I think that’s French for "Mackinac food tastes great!"). Cuisine ranges from Colonial to contemporary. This town is renowned its delicious fudge. Reputed to be the best in Michigan.